Surfing School - Surfing - Paddling Out
Go for nice, even, alternating strokes. When you have to get through the white water get up some speed and then either:
- Plow right through it.
- Raise your chest up with your arms so that the water passes between you and the board.
- Turtle. Just as the wave is about to hit you, roll over on your back (roll the board too), and pull the nose of the board down. Then roll back up.
- Duck-dive. Raise up on one knee, push the nose of the board under the wave and follow with your body. (This takes lots of practice).
- Bail. Make sure no one is within 20-30' of you, get off your board, and dive for the bottom. This is for emergencies only, like those times when you mutter to yourself slowy, "Oh my God", when one of those major waves come rollin' in. You lose a great deal of distance this way, and you endanger people around you.